Stagård - Riesling “Handwerk” 2021 (750ml)
Stagård Description
When Urban and Dominique Stagård took over the family estate in 2006, they set straight to reimagining its potential. Their vision had four elements: reclaiming obscure vineyards, reexamining the possibilities of iconic sites, farming based on a close study of soils, and making wine by drawing on knowledge and techniques of the past. Some of these approaches—such as the use of Steinzeug, or thick-walled stoneware fermentation vessels—are so arcane their rediscovery feels more like innovation. Riesling, the variety the Stagårds say “speaks most to us,” is their clear focus. Grüner veltliner, more traditional and far more widely planted in the Kremstal, naturally finds a place in their work as well. Both varieties are grown organically (certified since 2009) on 17 hectares of exceptional sites scattered around Stein and in the Wachau. The Stagårds are dedicated to amplifying biodiversity and intensifying hand work among the vines, and restoring traditional practices to their ancient cellar. They rely on native yeast fermentations and minimal sulfur, as well as long aging on the fine lees to promote texture and protect against oxidation. They also embrace skin maceration and stem inclusion when they feel this contributes to site expression. “Above all,” says Urban, “we trust in time.” This allows each wine to find its own individual rhythm and equilibrium. These are true wines of terroir – crystalline, tense, and intellectually satisfying, not to mention delightful to drink.
This riesling comes from parts of the Pfaffenberg, lower terraces below the Schreck and from sites across the river in the Wachau on three distinct terroirs.
Wine Advocate: 91 Points
Sourced 60% in the Braunsdorfer (gneiss), 20% in the Goldberg (loess) and 20% in the Kremsleithn (conglomerate) and aged in stainless steel (90%) and large oak (10%), the 2021 Kremstal Riesling Handwerk is bright and pure on the still young and yeasty nose that delivers notes of crushed crystalline rocks but also charming fruit aromas reminiscent of Veltliner (or loess) and sur lie aging for almost a year (with 5% whole berries in the tank). On the palate, this is a round, savory and juicy Riesling with crystalline and saline acidity, herbal notes such as oregano and a dense and aromatic finish. This is a very elegant and seriously structured Riesling on a much higher level than I remember many former vintages.
