Quintodecimo - Fiano di Avellino Exultet 2022 (750ml)

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Exultet is a sophisticated and elegant interpretation of Fiano di Avellino. It is a cru produced exclusively with the grapes of one Fiano vineyard. It is yellow and luminous with green reflections and fragrances of linden, acacia and thyme. It is well-structured with flavors of exotic fruit, citrus and honey and a very soft mineral note. This particular elegance also derives from a partial fermentation in small oak barrels. It is a wine with great longevity which can also age for some decades thanks to its richness in precursors of aroma and the integrity of its freshness and taste. The name given to the wine derives from Exultet of Mirabella Eclano, which gives tribute to bees. Exultet are liturgical parchments from the southern Italian Middle Ages. A kind of multimedia product made up by parchment papers sewed together, where the texts of Benedictio Cerei were written accompanied by musical notations and miniatures put on the opposite side of the sheets.

Vintner Luigi Moio's magic touch is evident in this challenging vintage that saw very hot conditions and forced stringent fruit selection. His Quintodecimo 2022 Fiano di Avellino Exultet (with 40,000 bottles released) is one of the best Campania white wines made in this vintage. The bouquet is generous and fluid with softly ripened peach, pear, poached apple and a touch of sweet Madagascar vanilla bean. The wine ferments in both stainless steel (70%) and new oak (30%) on the fine lees. You get so much texture and depth as a result, and it has a creamy, long finish.

Remarkably pretty from the first tilt of the glass, the 2022 Fiano di Avellino Exultet lifts up with a pretty honeyed floral quality, like freshly bloomed spring flowers, followed by suggestions of chamomile, mint and crushed yellow apple. This envelops the palate with silky textural fruits, showing the warmth of the vintage yet with a core of candied lime and zesty acidity to balance, as ripe green melon comes together with saline minerals to create a display of contrasts. The 2022 finishes remarkably fresh and with a subtle tension, already showing beautifully today yet in no rush to reveal all of its charms. This rendition of Exultet is richer and fruit-forward than I'm accustomed to, but the balance is gorgeous. That said, I'd find it difficult to get through more than a couple of glasses.