Domaine Sylvain Morey - Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Champs Gains” 2021 (750ml)
Price: $169.99
| Producer | Domaine Sylvain Morey |
| Country | France |
| Region | Burgundy |
| Varietal | Chardonnay |
| Vintage | 2021 |
| Sku | 200111 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Domaine Sylvain Morey Description
Two of the hallmarks of Burgundy are the minuscule size and the fractured distribution of the small domains that line the Cote d’Or. Centuries of division by inheritance and often family discord have fractured once-larger land holdings into microscopic parcels. Domains have become so small (and their fractured holding so atomic) that it is has become doubtful how these domains can continue to be passed down to the next generation. In the case of Domaine Sylvain Morey, this difficult tradition continues with the dissolution of Domaine Jean-Marc Morey. Jean-Marc’s son Sylvain and his sister Caroline split their father’s holdings in 2014, making this already small family domaine much smaller. (Domaine Jean-Marc Morey was founded in 1981 when Domaine Albert Morey was split between his two sons Jean-Marc and Bernard.) We feel fortunate to continue our relationship with these familiar family parcels, however small they may be, through the impressive and thoughtful work of Sylvain.
Sylvain has spent the last few decades establishing his own domaine, Bastide du Claux, located south of Burgundy in the Luberon. His experience working on his own project, combined with the deep knowledge he gained working with his father, has matured Sylvain into a thoughtful and confident vigneron. He is someone who respects the traditional manner in which his father worked but also brings his own sensibility to the table.
The wines have a bit more power than his father’s: they are more richly textured, while still retaining a firm mineral structure.
Sylvain is content with keeping his domaine small, currently working fewer than 3 hectares. Those of you who are familiar with the variety of wines Jean-Marc Morey produced might notice that Sylvain does not offer the same range. While he did split some particular parcels with his sister, they also divvied up a few whole parcels, since they were too small to split. Still, the bulk of Sylvain’s holdings are in Chassagne Montrachet.
Sylvain works 0.38 hectares of very old selection-massale Chardonnay planted in 1950 by his grandfather Albert in this prestigious climat on the slopes just above and south of the village. Known for its poor and stony soil, Caillerets produces a wine with profound minerality and finesse that always benefits from at least a few years in the cellar to express its true potential. The wine is raised in 25% new barrels for 18-months. Its tunneling, palate-commanding minerality veers into the realm of salt, leaving a dry impression on the finish and promising plenty of cellar upside.
Burghound: 91-93 Points
Here the wood treatment is a bit more prominent though still subtle on the cool, pure and fresh aromas of mostly pear, apple, lemon-lime and a hint of crushed anise. The rich, concentrated and caressing medium-bodied flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract while offers better depth and persistence on the equally well-balanced finale. This is a wine that should drink well young but age well too. Lovely.
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